apache canyon

Cottonwood Creek crosses the Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway just south of the Sam Nail ranch. Here, the Park Service has replaced the asphalt roadway with a short stretch of flood-resistant concrete roadway. About 1 mile south of this crossing, the asphalt roadway is again replaced by concrete, and this second patch of concrete is close to the Apache Canyon trailhead. There is a wide, gravel parking area on both sides of the roadway here. To locate the trailhead, walk west up the wash about 100 feet where you may see (if it has not been washed away) a line of small rocks that have been placed across the wash, indicating the trailhead on the right. Though not heavily travelled, the 4-mi trail from here to the stone corral is clear and easy to follow. The trail bed is mostly firm throughout, with only a few “cobbly” stretches that require closer attention to footing.The first ¾ mile is uphill, but not steeply so, as you ascend Burro Mesa. At the crest of the first hill are a sign that warns against removing artifacts, and a “kiosk” where you fill out a backcountry permit. Though the trail is gently downhill after the first ¾ mile, it is completely exposed and you must bring plenty of water, especially if the day is sunny and temperatures are expected to exceed the 70s (F). According to one ranger, the primary reason people get into trouble on this trail is failure to bring adequate water. We were advised to start this hike early in the day, and we were glad we followed this advice. We were also advised to bring a topo map (Tule Mountain quadrangle), and were glad we did.The Nail’s stone corral lies at the eastern base of a prominent dome of rock, and occupies part of a flat valley between this dome and a craggy prominence to the east. The corral is very well preserved and impressive for its expanse and its mass (walls 4-5 feet high and 2-3 feet thick!). The trail ends at the corral, as far as we could tell, though there is yet more to see here. About 1/8th mi north of the corral are the remains of a small stone shelter where cowboys of the Nail Ranch apparently bunked. You will have to pick your way across the thorny wash to reach it. Its four walls are still standing, some better than others. If you are interested in seeing Apache Canyon, you have several options, none involving a trail. From the stone shelter, you might hike northeast up the wash until you reach a low saddle to the north. The head of Apache Canyon lies just over this saddle. Or, you might follow the wash downhill and to the northwest until you clear the low set of hills on which the stone shelter is located. Once the hills have been cleared, hike to the northeast until you reach the edge of the canyon. Or, from the stone shelter, you might walk northeast along the flanks of the low hills on which the stone shelter is located, thereby avoiding the brushy (and occasionally thorny) washes. Stay at mid-elevation on these hills to avoid having to traverse several gullies. Someone had done this before us, for some cairns lead toward Apache Canyon. At the head of Apache Canyon is a signpost without a sign posted on it. Walking along the canyon’s edge, you can see small holes dug out of the canyon wall by past residents mining for chert, from which sharp tools were made. You can also see a large bluff of multicolored (white, yellow, orange, and red) chert that is, geologically speaking, the highlight of this hike. Awesome!The Apache Canyon trail is not found on current maps published by the Park Service, though it is on the aforementioned topo map from 1971. The Park Service does not encourage visitors to Apache Canyon because it is a culturally and environmentally fragile site that can be damaged just by walking in it. Neither does the Park Service discourage visitors, and we found the rangers at Panther Junction (Park Headquarters) happy to give helpful advice about the hike.

Apache Canyon is by far the most significant natural and historical feature in the park, and the most secret. The view of the Canyon quarry is spectacular, especially in the afternoon sunshine. The Novaculite rock glistens and shines with its brilliant colors of red, orange, and yellow. Apache Canyon is the site of a Clovis aged stone quarry. Prior to the recent desertification of Big Bend due to over grazing, it was a lush prairie providing the Native Americans with a hospitable living site while quarrying. More recently, the Canyon area was the site of a very successful ranch. A very large rock corral (still intact) and the ruins of the stone ranch house are impressive. Lithic evidence of Native American habitation is scattered over the entire area.Getting there is not for the faint of heart. Apache Canyon is 4.3 miles from the trail head, one way. While not strenuous, the distance and ruggedness takes its toll.Warning. This is the old Apache Canyon Trail, not listed on any current maps. There are two Burro Mesa trails and if you ask Park personnel, they will direct you to the one a mile south of where you need to be. Also, there is no direct link to the Canyon trail to either of these trails.Directions: Find Sam Nail Ranch on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and continue south 1000 feet to the first low water crossing. Continue another 3000 feet south to the second low water crossing. Park on the left side well above the area that floods. Be sure to take a minimum of 1 gallon of water per person. Cross the road to the dry stream bed and count 100 normal paces and look for a narrow trail up on the right. This quickly becomes recognizable as a washed out jeep trail which you will follow to the Burro Mesa Corral. About ¼ mile into the trail and at the top of the first rise, there is a trail box where you must sign in.Follow the trail/jeep track for 3+ miles. Across the last valley you will see the corral in the distance. Now you have a decision to make. Go to the corral and then on to the house on the far side of the valley. From there keep up out of the valley to the right for ½ mile to the entrance of the Canyon. The valley is a very thorn filled and unfriendly place. The other way to get there is to skirt the valley on the right and miss the corral. When one gets to the head of the valley, on the south side of the valley look for the trail marker, indicating the entrance to Apache Canyon.Getting to and back from the Canyon is a reward in its self. Seeing the Canyon is icing on the cake and by far the most spectacular geological formation in the park, and probably all of Texas.